These rear lift kits are designed to match the front Solid Axle Swap and Front Lift Kits. Kits feature long travel springs and shocks for super flexibility on the trail. These Rear Lift Kits are intended for use on (79-88) p/u trucks and 4Runners. It can also be used for coil to leaf swaps on (89-95) 4Runners.
NOTE: This kit requires extensive welding (for spring mounts, shock mounts etc...).
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For 1979-1988 Pickup & 1984-1989 4Runners: The front spring hangers need to be moved forward 6". Place the provided front spring hangers onto the frame, and slide the hanger forward from the stock mounts so the new hanger hole is 6" from the stock mounting hole. Tack the weld hanger in place and repeat on the other side.
For 1989-1995 Pickups only: The 1989-1995 Pickups used longer springs than earlier trucks. Follow the spring hanger mounting instructions above but change the dimensions from 6" to 5" so the hanger is mounted 5" forward of the stock mount.
For 1979-1988 Pickup's and 1984-1989 4Runners: The rear shackle mounts need to be relocated. Mark the frame directly above the center of the factory shackle mount bushing hole. Note that this mark will later be used to position the new shackle mounts. Using a die grinder, carefully cut around the factory mounts and remove them. For lighter pickup applications we recommend placing the new shackle mount 2" back from the center of the original mount. If you plan to carry heavy loads (above 400 lbs) and/or have a 4Runner, we recommend placing the center of the new mounts 3" back from the original mark. Now tack the weld shackle mount into place. Kits for later model Pickup's (1989 -1995) do not include the shackle mounts. The mount is already in the correct location.
Using the provided shackles, bolt springs into place. Note: Kits for 1989-1995 trucks have wide body style shackles and 18mm X 130mm bolts. The early style kits have shackles with 18mm X 120mm bolts. All of the shackles are provided with locking nuts.The shackle bolt threads should be greased with axle grease prior to installing the crimp nuts. Failure to grease the bolt threads will result in the nut seizing onto the shackle bolt. The leaf springs should be mounted so that the double wrapped end of the spring is attached to the spring hanger. The other end of the spring attaches to the shackles.
Using a torch, cut off and remove the factory spring perches on the axle. Place the new 3 hole perches on the axle and very lightly tack weld them into place.
Using the provided u-bolt flip kit, attach the axle to the leaf springs with the threaded end of the u-bolts facing up. Only Finger tighten the u-bolts at this point. Now install the tires onto the rear axle and lower the vehicle to the floor so that all the rear weight of the truck is supported by the rear axle. Use the floor jack to support the front of the 3rd member. Lift the front of the 3rd member with a jack so the flange points directly at the center of the transfer case output flange. Rotating the axle will shear perch the tack welds. Once the axle rotation has been chosen, re-tack perches in place.
Verify axle position and shackle angle within the wheel well. At this time the shackle angle should be about 5-10 degrees back. If desired, you can move the axle forward or backward and change the shackle angle by relocating the spring and shackle mounts. However, keep in mind that under compression axle will move backwards in the wheel well approximately 1".
Lift the truck back onto the jack-stands and remove the rear tires, axle, springs and shackles. Fully weld the spring perches, spring and shackle hangers. Paint as desired. Reassemble the axle springs, d rive shaft, & shackles onto the truck. Use a small dab of grease on the threads of all the greasable suspension bolts before installing the crimp nuts.
Shocks can be installed a number of different ways. They can be mounted so the top of one is tipped forward and the other is tipped backwards. Which is the most common method and is how most Toyota 4x4's came from the factory. For this style of mounting, stock upper shock mounts can be reused. Another method of mounting shocks is to weld a tube between frame rails above the axle and mount the shock from the axle up to the tube. With this method, it will be necessary to angle the tops of the shocks inward to prevent the shock from bottoming out.
For best results use the RTI ramp or forklift to twist the rear suspension and verify the shock mounting positions. The shocks should be mounted in such a way they neither limit extension or compress the travel of the suspension. If this is not done, shock damage will occur. Shocks damaged by excess compression or extension, are not covered by warranty. Kits include 12" shocks for rear applications. If you wish to swap these for 10" or 14" shocks we would be happy to do this as long as shocks are returned to us in new condition.
NOTE: Do not weld near shocks. Splatter can stick to the shock tube and will damage shock seals, resulting in shock failure. Remove the shocks from the vehicle when welding.
Cut off excess u-bolt length so that no more then 3-5 threads are exposed. Reinstall the drive shaft. Note that in most cases it will be necessary to have the rear drive shaft lengthened. We recommend replacing the drive shaft tubing with .095" material. The drive shaft length should be measured after the installation of the lift. Most drive shaft shops measure from the center of one flange to the center of the other while the truck is sitting level with its weight on the springs.
Using a torch, cut and remove the factory spring mounts from the frame. Torque the U-bolts to 100 ft/lbs. Re-torque the U-bolts after 100 miles and recheck them at each oil change or every 5,000 miles.
NOTE: The rear springs generally settle in after normal driving of about 100 miles.