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If you know our 22R range you will be expecting a ladder of stages. We do not offer that on the 3RZ. There is one built long block for this engine — the Stage 1 Series — and we would rather say so plainly than imply a catalogue we do not have.
That is not a gap so much as a reflection of the engine. The 3RZ-FE is a modern, fuel-injected, balance-shafted design with a good factory head, and most of what owners want from it is more of what it already does well rather than a different engine entirely.
So there are three honest routes, and this page covers the first two:
The Stage 1 Series Long Block for the 1995-2004 3RZ is built for the owner who wants the factory engine's reliability back, with more underneath it.
Every one is precision machined, balanced and hand assembled rather than pulled from a shelf.
This is the one thing to get right. The long block is available with either a 4-port or an 8-port cylinder head, and which one you need is set by your model year and emissions equipment, not by preference:
The same split runs through the whole catalogue — intake manifold gaskets, supercharger kits and cylinder heads are all listed 8-port or 4-port on those same year boundaries. If you are unsure which you have, count the intake runners at the head, or send us your VIN.
If your 3RZ is healthy and you simply want more from it, the Stage 1 Total Performance Power Package is the sensible first move. It addresses the factory restrictions on both sides of the engine at once — air in, exhaust out, and the shift — for an additional 20-25 horsepower and a useful gain in torque.
Because it improves how efficiently the engine breathes rather than just adding fuel, it often improves fuel economy rather than costing it — which is not something we can say about most power adders.
It is the right answer for a Tacoma that feels flat merging onto the highway, on steep grades, or since you fitted larger tyres.
Everything in our long blocks is sold separately, and the honest truth is that a careful home build using the same parts will give you the same engine.
Start with the Master Rebuild Kit, then work outward:
Pistons, Rods & Crankshafts · Cylinder Heads & Valvetrain · Camshafts · Timing Components
One piece of advice before you start. If the engine is coming apart anyway, deal with the balance shafts. They are the one common bottom end weakness on this engine, and the tools and parts to delete them are on the Rebuild Kits page. Doing it during a rebuild costs a fraction of doing it later.
A fresh long block is the right place to add boost, not the other way round. Both routes are here:
Not sure whether to rebuild, replace or bolt on? Tell us the mileage, the truck and what it does and we will give you a straight answer — including when the answer is to leave it alone.