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Get this right before you order:
They are not interchangeable and the naming is as blunt as it is because the mistake is common. If the truck is a T100, buy the T100 pump. Everything else — Tacoma, 4Runner, Tundra — takes the other one.
The oil pump also carries the front crankshaft seal, which is on the Pistons page. Replace it while the pump is off — it sits directly behind the timing belt, and oil from that seal destroys a rubber belt.
The 1993-1998 T100 oil pan is the direct replacement for a damaged original.
The one worth explaining is the oil pan kit for a Tacoma with a solid axle swap.
Here is the problem it solves. Put a solid front axle under a Tacoma and the differential ends up where the factory oil pan sump lives. Something has to give, and it should not be the pan. This kit reshapes the sump so the axle has somewhere to go through its travel, without giving up the oil capacity the engine needs.
If you are planning that swap, this is the part that gets discovered late and holds the build up. Order it with the mounts, not after them — see Motor Mounts & Swap.
The rear sump pick-up tube is the part that matches a rear sump pan.
Whenever the pan comes off, look at the pick-up screen. It is the cheapest diagnostic in engine building: a screen furred with sludge or carrying metal tells you something about the rest of the engine that no gauge will.
And when you refit, use a new gasket on the tube rather than the old one. An air leak at the pick-up is a low-pressure fault that looks exactly like a worn pump.
Bearings, main studs and the parts that set oil clearance are on Pistons, Rods & Crankshafts. Pan gaskets and seals come in the sets on Rebuild Kits, Gaskets & Seals.
Building an engine for steep angles or racing and want to talk about oil control? Tell us what the truck does and we will go through it with you.