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The Master Rebuild Kit
The Master Rebuild Kit contains what you need to rebuild the engine, assembled from several manufacturers rather than one — we buy each component from whoever makes the best version of it: Street Performer hypereutectic pistons, Hastings rings from the United States, main and thrust bearings from Japan, rod bearings and a complete gasket set.
It suits a straightforward freshen-up and it suits the base of a more serious build.
If boost is in the plan
Hypereutectic pistons are right for a rebuilt street engine and wrong behind boost. If there is a supercharger or a turbo coming, move to the 8.3:1 forged pistons on the Pistons, Rods & Crankshafts page and build the bottom end for the boost rather than around it.
Head Gaskets — OEM or MLS?
OEM-style composite seals well on a standard engine and is more forgiving of a deck that is not perfectly flat. Year-specific sets for 1995-2000 and September 2000-2004, plus the Pro head gasket.
MLS — multi-layer steel handles the cylinder pressure of boost and high compression, and it is what we fit to built engines. It also demands a properly finished deck and head surface; it will not hide what a composite gasket forgives. Available in 96mm x .040", 96mm x .051", 97mm x .040" and 97mm x .051".
Match the bore to your block and the thickness to your target compression. A thicker gasket lowers compression, which is usually what you want under boost.
Bolts or studs
The OE head bolt set is correct for a stock rebuild. For boost, high compression or an MLS gasket, use the Pro head stud set — studs clamp more evenly and let you torque properly without dragging the threads through the block.
Full sets: complete, bottom end, head gasket set and the ITM set.
Seals
Every one of these is behind something expensive to remove. Do them all while the engine is apart.
- Rear main seal — behind the flywheel. Leaving it is how a fresh engine ends up leaking onto a new clutch.
- Front balancer seal, and the Seal Saver when the balancer has worn a groove and a standard seal will simply leak again.
- Seal Saver rear main for the same problem at the back.
- Valve cover gasket — cheap, and the commonest oil leak on a high-mileage RZ.
- Oil filter housing seal kit — frequently mistaken for a rear main leak.
Also here: brass freeze plugs, a sensible upgrade over steel while the block is bare.
Two Things to Do While It Is Apart
- Timing chain kit — see Timing Components. Simpler on this engine than on the 2.7, because there are no balance shafts to work around.
- Water pump — same front cover, and the wrong part to be doing again in a year. See Cooling.
Tell us the mileage and symptoms and we will tell you honestly whether it needs a rebuild, a head, or just a valve cover gasket.