Everything else on this page follows from one number, and getting it wrong is the most expensive mistake in an engine build.
Fitting high compression pistons and then adding boost is how engines get destroyed. Decide which one you are building before you order.
The 12.5:1 destroked to 2.5L set exists for a specific reason: short course off-road classes that cap displacement at 2.5 litres. They carry valve reliefs for 2.5mm oversized valves and an anti-friction coating. If you are not racing to that rule, you do not want these.
For a rebuild rather than a race build, the Street Performer sets come complete with rings in STD, +.020", +.030" and +.040". Matching Hastings ring sets are available separately in the same oversizes.
All of our forged pistons now ship with gas nitride rings as standard — originally developed for boost, and useful on any engine because the material seals at a thinner cross-section, which reduces friction. See the Turbo page for the full explanation.
Both are chromoly and both are a large step up from the factory rod. They are built differently and suit different budgets.
Crossbeam rods are custom made and suit anything from stock-style to high-torque long-rod engines. They come fully balanced with bronze pin bushings and ARP rod bolts. This is the best chromoly rod we offer.
Spool H-beam rods are a two-piece chromoly forging in 4340 steel — high carbon, and considerably better than the low-carbon 51-series steel used in cheaper rods — with ARP 2000 fasteners as standard.
The honest guidance: a healthy factory rod is good to a surprisingly high power level on this engine. Upgrade rods when you are adding serious boost or serious rpm, not as a default.
The new OEM Toyota crankshaft (13411-75901) is a genuine forged replacement. If yours is damaged or has been ground past a usable size, a new crank is often cheaper than the alternative once machining and undersize bearings are counted.
The range covers stock rebuilds through to race:
Measure your crank before ordering. Undersize bearings on a standard crank, or standard bearings on a ground one, will destroy the engine on the first start.
The Pro main stud set clamps the main caps more evenly than the factory bolts and does not drag the block threads while torquing. It belongs in any engine seeing boost or high rpm.
For a stock rebuild, OEM main bolts and OEM rod bolts are correct. Both are replace-on-assembly parts — do not reuse them.
Also here: street rod bushings, the crankshaft key set and brass freeze plugs, which are a sensible upgrade over steel while the block is bare.
The elastomer in the factory balancer deteriorates with age, which costs performance and lets vibration through to the crank. The OE replacement balancer is the fix.
If you have a persistent oil leak at the balancer, stop replacing the seal. The usual cause is a groove worn into the balancer's seal surface by the old seal, and a new seal riding in that groove leaks immediately.
The Seal Saver is a repair sleeve that presses onto the balancer to give the seal a fresh smooth surface to ride on. There is an equivalent Seal Saver for the rear main, and the OEM front seal and balancer bolt are also here.
Specifying a bottom end? Tell us the power target, the fuel and what the truck does and we will put the combination together with you.
