Measure First. Everything Else Follows.

This is the largest section of the 22R catalogue and the one where ordering by guesswork is most expensive. Three numbers decide what you need, and you cannot get them from the year of the truck:

  1. Bore size. Standard, or +.020", +.030", +.040", +.060", +.080". If the engine has been apart before, it is very likely not standard. Your machinist will tell you what it cleans up to — order after that conversation, not before.
  2. Compression ratio. Sets on this page run from 8.0:1 to 12.5:1. Higher is not better; it is a decision about fuel, boost and what the truck does.
  3. Which engine. 1981-1984 and 1985-1995 take different parts, and the 22RTE turbo takes different parts again.

If you are not sure, call or email us with what the machine shop measured. We would far rather answer that than process a return on a piston set.

Choosing Compression

A rough guide to how the ratios here are meant to be used:

Note the sets marked "w/ Early Head" — 12.5:1 and 12.0:1 +.080". Chamber volume changes the finished ratio, so the head you are running is part of this decision, not separate from it.

Piston Sets by Line

Street — the standard rebuild piston, sized by bore: standard / 92mm, +.020" / 92.5mm, +.030" / 92.75mm, +.040" / 93mm. With rings included: +.060" for 1985-1995, and for 1981-1984 in standard, +.020", +.030", +.040" and +.060". Also the Street Hyper set for 1981-1984.

Keith Black at 9.7:1, with rings — standard, +.020", +.030", +.040".

22RTE turbo (1986-1988) with rings — standard, +.020", +.030", +.040".

Pro and Pro Stroker — 9.7:1, 9.8:1 +.080", 10.0:1, 10.5:1 +.080", 9.7:1 +.080", 12:1 +.080", 12.0:1 +.080", 12.5:1 +.080".

Street Stroker — 9.7:1, choose your size, or the 9.7:1 piston and ring set at +.040" for 1981-1984.

Rings

If your pistons are still good, rings alone will restore compression. Three lines, each sized to the bore:

For built engines, ring sets are specified by ring land dimensions as well as bore — take these from the piston, not from a catalogue guess: 93mm 1.5/1.5/4.0, 94mm gapless 1.5/1.5/4.0, 94mm gapless 1.5/2.0/4.0, 94mm Total Seal 1.5/2.0/4.0, 94mm Total Seal 1.75/2.0/4.0, and the 94mm gapless set for Wiseco pistons.

Crankshafts

Stock stroke is 89mm; the stroker cranks are 94mm and that extra 5mm is where the torque comes from.

Worth saying, because it is unusual: the Street cranks are not reworked cores. We spent years chasing usable cores and eventually had new crankshafts cast to our own design instead. Every one is ground to factory spec for standard main and rod sizes, the journals are micro-polished to a mirror finish for bearing life, then it is heat treated and balanced.

Street crankshaft 89mm (STD/STD) · 89mm (+.010"/+.010") · Street Stroker 94mm.

The Pro Stroker takes a different route: the core is inspected, then Magnaflux checked before any work goes into it, hard welded, and the journals offset ground to gain the 5mm of stroke. Then heat treated, ground to spec, micro-polished, oiling holes chamfered, shot peened and dynamically balanced. It comes as .010" main journals with standard Pro rod journals — order bearings to match.

Plus the key set of 3 or a single key.

Complete rotating assemblies: Street Stroker kit with H-beam rods, without rods, and the Pro 2.6L stroker kit.

Toyota Journal or Pro Journal? Read This Before You Order Anything

This is the question we answer most often, and getting it wrong means a box of parts that will not go together.

"Pro Journal" is a modification we make to the rod journal so the engine can run a Chevy-style rod bearing. We did it during crankshaft development for a plain reason: better bearing quality, far more choice, and availability that does not depend on one supplier still making a Toyota part.

The rule that follows is absolute and it works in both directions:

  • A Pro Journal crankshaft needs Pro Journal rod bearings and Pro Journal connecting rods.
  • Pro Journal rods need a Pro Journal crankshaft.

You cannot mix one with the other. If you are not certain what is in your engine, call before you order the set — it is a two-minute conversation that saves a return.

Connecting Rods

Two journal sizes, and per the section above they are not interchangeable.

Chromoly H-beam, Toyota journal — our own rod, 4340 forged chromoly from a two-piece forging so the grain follows the shape of the rod, with the cap forged separately so its grain runs across the load. Higher nickel and chromium content for fatigue life without brittleness, and every rod shot peened. Good for a performance rebuild up to 600 HP, and equally the sensible replacement for tired stock rods in a daily driver.

H-beam, Pro journal — the same construction on the Chevy-style journal. This is the rod once 300 horsepower or more is expected.

Pro Series crossbeam rod — Pauter, custom forged E-4340 with a single-rib crossbeam. The profile is not just about strength: it cuts oil turbulence in the crankcase. For high-boost turbo, serious nitrous, or a high-horsepower street build.

Rod bolts are not reusable: standard set or Pro set. Wristpins: Pro .866" and locks, set of 8 — note our pins come in standard .120" and a thicker .155" "Turbo" wall, they fit our forged pistons only, and they are not interchangeable with stock pins. Always fit new locks.

Small-end bushings: Safety Auto set of 4. Change them any time the rods come off — worn bushings let the piston walk in the bore, and where that ends is a rebuild. They are a split bushing and must be installed and honed to size by a machinist, not pressed in at home.

Bottom-end clamping: the Pro main stud set — ARP 8740 chromoly at 200,000 psi tensile, with hardened parallel-ground washers and aerospace nuts, to cut crankshaft flex and main cap fatigue. To be clear about what it is: these secure the main caps, not the cylinder head. Head studs are on the cylinder heads page.

Bearings

Order to the crank, not to the year — if it has been ground, you need the matching undersize.

Mains: 1982-1995 and 1975-1981. Rods: Safety Auto, Safety Auto +.010", Clevite 77 Toyota journal, Clevite 77 Pro journal and ACL Pro journal. Thrust: 1985-1995 and 1975-1984.

Block, Balancer and the Two Parts Worth Adding

If the old block is finished, the bare Street engine block for 1985-1995 comes fully prepared with freeze plugs and a matching piston set — which removes the bore-size question entirely.

Front end: factory replacement harmonic balancer, underdrive crankshaft pulley, the balancer pulley bolt and the Seal Saver for the balancer seal.

Two we recommend on any serious build: the full perimeter crank scraper — the part called out with our Premium and Builder Series kits — and the Pro block brace kit.

!